Lead-acid jump-starters, being larger, have room for features that wouldn't fit in the compact case of lithium models.Ĭompressors are popular, useful for inflating tires in an emergency.ġ2-volt DC outlets can power suitable accessories.Ī 120-volt inverter might be included, feeding power to ordinary household power outlets.Ī worklight is common, and sometimes detachable. On the ground beside the vehicle is a place for it, but short cables can make this difficult. Make sure your jump-starter is not going to fall into the engine bay or off the car when you attempt to start it. As our automotive expert says, you can have too few amps, but never too many! Look for 600 to 1,000 amps from a lithium-based jump-starter, and 1,000 amps or more from a lead-acid model.īottom line? If you can afford it – and certainly if you have multiple vehicles – go big. Peak amps may be the only figure you can compare across several manufacturers.
If you can find cranking amp figures, the following is a useful guide, albeit approximate: No wonder choosing a jump-starter is confusing! What you really want are cranking amps (CA) or cold cranking amps (CCA). Also, jump-starter manufacturers usually report peak amps, which doesn't really mean a lot except as a comparison. Amps and ampere-hours aren't quite the same things. So, the solution is easy, right? Choose a jump-starter with the same ampere-hours as your car. On the other hand, if you've got a rumbling V8, then a cheap, low-output jump-starter isn't going to make it hiccup, let alone run. So, if you have a small car, you don't need a big, expensive jump-starter. If you've ever bought batteries for different vehicles, you probably know that some need a higher ampere-hour (Ah) rating than others. The motor in the average family compact needs far fewer amps to turn it over than the one in a sports car or big SUV. However, what's more important is the current it supplies, in amps. With the exception of smaller models (used to start garden tractors and that kind of thing), the battery inside a jump-starter is the same voltage as your vehicle: 12 volts.
Though high-performance models are becoming more widely available, they tend to cost more. The drawback with lithium models is lower performance. They also have smart microprocessor control, so they not only start your car, they can charge your phone, tablet, or laptop. Lithium versions are much more compact many would fit in a glove box. The downside is that they're bulky and heavy – anything from 15 to 30 pounds. They are proven, effective, reliable, and durable. Lead-acid versions have been around for decades. Inside the jump-starter is one of two types of battery: lead-acid (the same kind as in your vehicle) or lithium (the kind you would usually associate with power tools).
As soon as the vehicle is running, the jump-starter is disconnected and, if all is working properly, the vehicle begins charging its own battery. The jump-starter feeds current through the battery – temporarily taking its place. In order to get your vehicle going, a jump-starter has to supply sufficient current (measured in amps) to get the starter motor cranking over. These elements impact performance and price, so let's look at each in turn. Control technology, built-in safety features, and a host of useful (and not so useful) options. Manufacturers try to tempt you with a variety of extras. This is fine because not everyone needs to start a V8 pickup. That leads to models with a wide variety of different power levels. The smaller the vehicle, the less current the jump-starter has to supply. So, we know what a jump-starter does, but why are there so many to choose from? In essence, there are two reasons: You can start your car or truck yourself in just a few minutes. They provide instant current without the need for a donor vehicle. A powerful battery wrapped in a case, with jumper cables attached. Jump-starters, for all their apparent complexity, are basically quite simple. If that vehicle is smaller or its battery isn't in top condition, it might not provide enough current. The drawback is that you need another vehicle to piggyback off of. Cheap, simple, and can be very effective. Jumper cables consist of a bunch of wires wrapped in an insulating rubber or plastic sheath, with crocodile clips on each end.
Generally, they provide a trickle charge over 12 to 24 hours. Some can give a boost in half an hour or so that might get your car started. There are three ways to get juice into a flat battery:Ī battery charger that you plug into the household electrical supply. Follow manufacturer's instructions precisely, or you could cause permanent damage. You should also wait 15 to 30 seconds between attempts. You shouldn't crank your motor for more than a few seconds with the jump-starter attached.
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